Hank Shaw Guest Dinner at City Grocery

Shaw, author of the award-winning blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, extends the concept of nose-to-tail cooking to "bill to feet" in this original and beguiling collection. While duck is seeing a resurgence on restaurant menus, many people are reluctant to cook it at home. Shaw aims to impart the specialized knowledge needed to properly cook both domesticated and wild varieties of these birds. He starts with the basics, which include describing the various breeds of water fowl, how to break down a whole bird, and storage. There are chapters for recipes that deal with whole ducks, pieces, and extras (offal), and some of these recipes are fairly standard, including those for roast ducks or geese and confit. Thankfully, Shaw goes on to aptly demonstrate the versatility of these birds with Duck Fried Rice, Two Ways; Italian-style Duck Meatballs; and a gumbo with duck and shrimp. Recipes such as goose stew with barley and celery root, and pan-roasted goose breasts with orange and ouzo highlight several inviting goose offerings. Shaw's extras are stellar and worth trying, not only because they're so unusual but because they're truly appetizing. These include duck heart tartare puttanesca; duck liver ravioli; and goose prosciutto. Sausages, hot dogs, and pie dough round out this eclectic but tasty host of offerings that beg to be tried.